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Water festival, Fly me to the moon
23-Nov-2007

Under the glowing full moon, a crowd mingles enjoying the cool night. Some grasp bananas, whilst others hold Amm Bok [pounded rice] in their cupped hands, waiting for lunar zenith.

This is Ork Amm Bok (the moon prayer ceremony), a ceremony held on the 15th day of the waxing moon in the cold season, . Like Bon Om Tuk (the water festival) Ork Amm Bok is a boisterous harvest celebration which is part of the ancient lunar calendar, though such celebrations are often little more than an excuse to party. Unlike Bon Om Tuk the Ork Amm Bok is held in pagodas throughout the nation, allowing those in communities too poor or remote to make the trip to Phnom Penh a release from the stresses of daily life.

Mr. Raksa, a Phnom Penh Royal University student from Takeo, said that that he preferred Ork Amm Bok to the Water Festival.

“When there is Bon Om Tuk and Ork Amm Bok, I always go to my homeland to enjoy the festivities at the pagoda in my village,” he said. “In Phnom Penh there are good celebrations too but there are a lot of people who come from the provinces to take part so it is crowded, with many traffic jams.”

Ajar (wiseman) Seik Nomm at Pou Chrey pagoda said the decentralised nature of Ork Amm Bok means it is popular amongst poorer people unable to afford the expense of a trip to the capital for Bon Om Tuk.
“On this occasion the rich people will amuse themselves in Phnom Penh because they can visit the boat racing and lantern floating at Chatomuk [the junction of rivers known as ‘the four faces’].”

Though the ceremony is held at midnight, involving long hours of waiting, no-one is bored. After the preaching of the pagoda monks, people pass the time by dancing, chatting, and even flirting to prevent drowsiness. Pagodas buzz with the blessings of wise men and, for those with electricity, blaring music. As midnight arrives and the ceremony gets underway, there is a chaotic bustle as people wander around the pagoda with armfuls of bananas and Amm Bok, searching for their friends and family.

“In this pagoda it gets very crowded once Amm Bok feeding time arrives, because it is the time for Cambodian people to relax and enjoy themselves after their farming year,” said Mr. Ko Sol, a reveller from Kampong Speu province. “Before the moon reaches to top of the sky, we play many games.”

Every November the rice crop is harvested, a time of relief for the 80% of Cambodia’s population who make their living from farming. Rural people usually keep several sheaves of rice to roast and pound into Amm Bok for their children, the thudding carrying far through the still autumn air.

During the Ork Amm Bok ceremony, held when the moon is directly overhead, participants feed Amm Bok to friends and family, putting their backs gently. The giver will ask “Are you full yet?” and the person being fed replies “Not full yet” three times, answering on the fourth repetition “I am full.” Onlookers cry out “Sa Thu [Yes]”.

Afterwards, candles are lit and placed in front of the Sala Chan (monk’s eating hall). All present pray for good luck and good fortune.

Ajar Seik Nomm explained that the three candles are symbolic of the local geography. The first and third candles represent the neighbouring villages and the middle candle represents their own village. When the candles are lit, they are turned downward to drain the molten wax onto a bed of banana leaves, Nomm said.

“From this we can find out which village get a lot or a small amount of rain next season by looking how much candle wax drops onto the banana leaves,” he said. “We can predict which villages will get good harvests by this ritual.”

On the night of Ork Amm Bok, the moon is unusually bright, its discolourations showing up very clearly. Cambodians believe the shadow is that of a sacred rabbit, known as Preah Pou Te Sat, one of the previous incarnations of the Buddha.

Ajar Seik Nomm recited the folk story which tells of Preah Pou Te Sat’s sacrifice.

Before his rebirth as Prince Siddartha, the Buddha was incarnated as several different animals, one of which was a rabbit. Even in this lowly form, the compassion and kindness of Preah Pou Te Sat was unparalleled, leading a Tevarda (angel) to arrive disguised as a hunter to test his resolve. Emaciated and infirm the hunter feigned starvation.

“I’m so hungry,” he moaned. “If I don’t eat soon I will surely die.”

Preah Pou Te Sat was overcome with sympathy.

“Old man; please make a fire and roast my body to eat,” he said. “I will gladly sacrifice myself to keep you alive.”

The hunter made a blazing fire into which Preah Pou Te Sat fearlessly leapt. However, because of his courageous self sacrifice, Preah Pou Te Sat was unharmed. Witnessing the miracle, the hunter turned himself back into a Tervarda and carried the rabbit up to the heavens. There he left the representation of Preah Pou Te Sat as a reminder of his benevolence, celebrated annually in the Ork Amm Bok ceremony.

May Titthara
Photographs by Heng Chivoan
From Cambodia: the life, Volume:1 Issue:6 (November 2007)

Water festival, Fly me to the moon23-Nov-2007

Under the glowing full moon, a crowd mingles enjoying the cool night. Some grasp bananas, whilst others hold Amm Bok [pounded rice] in their cupped hands, waiting for lunar zenith.

Water festival, Fly me to the moon
23-Nov-2007