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    Thanking the Sacred Mother
    01-Jan-2008

    Naked bulbs spill their feeble light onto cavorting youths beneath a banyan tree. The moon, full and bright, bathes the scene in an eerie glow, bleaching monks’ robes of their colour.

    Festivals like this, known as Bon Dar Lean in Khmer, are a celebration of a successful harvest in Cambodia’s overwhelmingly agrarian society, said Meach Pon, a member of the Buddhist Institute. Bon Dar Lean also provides an opportunity for Khmers to make amends for sins committed over the past year, he added. “People can apologize for mistakes such as urinating on or walking over rice fields,” Pon said.
    Preparations begin early in the morning, the din of frenzied cooking ringing out across the village. A long day is spent slaving over a hot stove, broken only by a midday prayer for the village elders.
     
    Ajar (wiseman) Num Tom of Phoo pagoda Takeo province said Bon Dar Lean takes place in January or February depending on the time of the harvest. In today’s Cambodia, it is always celebrated on Saturday or Sunday because children are free from school and adults may close their businesses.
     
    The location of the ceremony is important, Ajar Num Too said. A harvested rice field is spread with buffalo or cow dung and then spread with un-husked rice. The dung acts as a dark background making the rice clearly visible, Num Too explained.
     
    “The harvest festival is not so complex although it is somewhat tumultuous because of the band playing songs for the youth to dance to,” Num Too said. “Villagers prepare offerings to Preah Rotanak Tray [the Buddha] and Preah Poum [village spirit]. Every villager takes food to give to the monks and to eat together. It is a very happy occasion.”
     
    Poly, a factory worker from Phnom Penh, said she always looks forward to Bon Dar Lean. “I wish for the ceremony to come and I try to persuade my co-workers to visit my homeland to join in,” she said. “We always have a meal together at our home and afterwards we gather to dance.”
     
    Sok Kangna, a  Kandal province factory worker, agreed. “Bon Dar Lean is as fun as in Khmer New Year in my village because all of the members of my family reunite. It’s a time for me and my friends to meet up.”
     
    Rotana, a security guard said the ceremony provides a well-earned break for rural villagers after the drudgery of the harvest. “After farming for a whole rice season, the harvest festival arrives so people forget their tiredness. People without money sell some of their rice harvest to get money to welcome guests that come to stay for Bon Dar Lean.”
     
    The noise increases at dusk as motorbikes and cars bring guests to a family meal Afterwards people gather to give alms to Ajar or monks, inviting them to bless the village and its residents. Offerings are also given to local spirits to appeal for their help in protecting village crops from disease and pests. Once the prayers have finished, young and old alike gather in the cool evening to enjoy traditional entertainments
    Unsurprisingly, the main focus of Bon Dar Lean is rice, Cambodia’s staple. The importance of rice can be seen in the words used to describe the harvest, said Meach Pon: Dar Lean, derived from the verb meaning ‘to cross an empty rice field’ or ‘to clear a rice field’, is the focus of rural life. Rice has been personified as a spiritual mother since ancient times, Pon said, with villagers often referring to the grain as Preah Mai (sacred mother). Indeed, many Cambodians express their gratitude to Preah Mai with a prayer before each meal.

    There are still many traditional curbs on wastefulness followed by rural people, Pon said, including formal apologies to Preah Mai if rice is spilled during washing. “If some rice flowed away with the water, we had to apologise and then give the spilled rice to chickens for good luck,” he said.
     
     

    May Titthara
    Photographs by
     


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