Vihea Sour Pagoda
01-May-2008

Vihear Sour may seem like an ordinary rural pagoda but its unassuming façade conceals one of Cambodia’s most sacred spots.

Meach Ponn, a Buddhist Institute expert in Khmer traditions, said that this temple was built in Oudong period and at the present time it was ruined just leaving Khmer king footprint further more people in that area called Baksey Cham Krong.     

Khmers come from far and wide to pray at Vihear Sour for success, especially during the annual P’Chum Benn ancestor ceremony.
Most Cambodians make a prayer to the spirit of Mea Poa, the temple’s guardian spirit, upon arrival to Vihear Sour. An old lady, believed to be temporarily possessed by Mea Poa’s spirit, blesses worshippers, promising good luck.
Chhan, the 66 year-old medium, said that the Mea Poa’s spirit came to her in 1960 and has been part of her life ever since. “Many people come to see me to predict for their future but I know nothing about that,” she said. “Whoever needs me to help must to light incenses for Mea Poa, and then the Mea Poa spirit will take possession of my body and make predictions for them.”
A smooth path leads further into the temple enclosure where the Ram Yol Toung Phkar (also known as Mea Op Ph’Tey) awaits. This large termite mound is a fertility shrine for couples struggling to conceive. However, those whose prayers are answered must offer gifts back the shrine—in Cambodia nothing comes for free.

Meach Ponn, a Buddhist Institute expert in Khmer traditions, said Vihear Sour is very popular amongst Cambodians who favor the more esoteric side of Khmer spirituality. “Many people come to offer thanks and give donations for the good luck they believe the temple spirits have given them,” he said.

West of Mea Op Ph’Tey another small shrine offers succor for Cambodians fearful of a trip abroad. Believer queue in the hot afternoon sun for the chance to make their offering to a female Buddha idol called Vihear Andet who is reputed to offer protection to those working in other countries.

Vihear Sour is also one of the best places to experience rarely-seen traditional Khmer sports such as Khmer wrestling, dancing and Buffalo racing.
Bun Chear, 72, is the chief holy man in Vihear Sour pagoda. He said the temple sees thousands of visitors during P’Chum Benn, most of whom come to play traditional games
“We always celebrate these games every year in this pagoda,” he said. “I know the rules of many games and sports because I used to watch old play them here ... In ancient times, our ancestors enjoyed these games during traditional ceremonies and after the harvest just like today.”

 “I have played these games since the end of the Pol Pot regime. People here never forget how to celebrate these games because it is our tradition. It helps villagers to have a good time and raises money for the temple.”

Especially exciting is buffalo racing, now rarely seen. Oung Vorn an Apasa conservation authority said, the traditional of buffalo racing occurred after Angkor period because we had the evidence on the wall of Bayon temple and one other temple in Buntheay Mean chey province.
Bun Chear said the ancient sport is now under threat of dying out. “If we don’t play these games, they will soon be lost because. Nowadays pagodas never celebrate these kinds of games in our traditional ceremonies. Instead, they just play [modern] dance music to or play cards.”

“Presently we are rare to see people play those games in their village ceremony or Khmer tradition ceremonies’s day. I think that maybe it was out of date, but, if they do not take them to play these ceremonies it will be lost and the Khmer young generation will not know forever, said Mr. Oung Vorn.


Mr. Vorn further added, in the previous time our ancestors played these games in our traditional ceremonies. In addition, sometimes they played in their free time such as after harvest or planning rice. For cow racing, it could be raced for 2 or 3 candidates per time. The provinces that like playing this games are Seim Reap and Banthey Meanchey provinces.
Before starting to celebrated buffalo racing, we have to pray for apologize to our ancestors’s spirit whom look after the village please do not be unlenient to someone when they make mistake. More over it is also help the people in those provinces to get the happiness, and for a good a rice crop in the next year to get better, said Mr Oung Vorn.


Mr. Pisey who is living in that village said, in this pagoda is not only one of places to play these Khmer traditional games, it also the oldest pagoda related to the history of Cambodia too. If the old men in this village do not celebrate these kinds of game, I think, I will not know forever. I will follow the old men’ step to celebrate these games in order to show our young generation.
Even though it is not Phcum Ben’s day or special days, it is still there are many people come to visit this place everyday, especially on Saturday and Sunday.
        
Along national road No. 6 that is about 47 km from Phnom Penh turn right by guidepost means Preak Tameak ferry and onwards the passengers spend about 200m more on the path but they have to buy a ticket to get on the ferry crossing a river to Vihear Sour temple. However the passengers need to wait about 20 or 30 minutes for the ferry back from other side.

By traveling on a ferry, passengers have to pay 500 Reil for one person with one ticket. The ferry starts to serve passengers from 5am to 6pm. After they get off a ferry, they need to ride ahead about 7km a long national road which is under construction and very dusty.

May Titthara
Photos by Heng Chivoan

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