HOME | DESTINATIONS | BOKOR, CLOUD MOUNTAIN

Bokor, Cloud Mountain
01-Jun-2008

Over a thousand feet up, with a swirling mist and sharp dew, the stunning view of the Gulf of Thailand is endlessly disrupted by the roaring sound of trucks. Part of the Elephant range of mountains in Kampot and located in one of Cambodia’s six national parks, Bokar Mountain has a long and interesting history. It will soon have an interesting future.

Blessed with natural beauty and charm, Kampot was an important port town during the French colonial era and Bokor Mountain was its symbolic peak. The most celebrated retreat of the colonial era with a luxurious hotel and casino constructed high up on a hill station; war twice brought Bokor Mountain’s splendour to an end. Now this beautiful site has been leased from the government for 99 years for a 1000 million USD construction and development project by the Soka Hotel Group, hoping to return Bokor Mountain to its glory days.

The tourist potential of Cambodia is growing and the country is developing rapidly says Mr Svay Vutthy, the supervisor of the development. Bokor Mountain has a famous name and history so if it is developed, it can only enhance Kampot and Cambodia’s tourist trade. Even though it has been abandoned for so long without any improvement or reconstruction, he continues, we wanted to develop it because of its historical significance.

It is difficult to reach the top of the mountain and the long road holds the key to the development of the site. Mr. Vutthy states that the company has rebuilt about 10 km of the 33 km journey and in two and a half years, the road will be totally finished. By that time, a new hotel with 600 rooms will be finished with the possibility of enlarging to 3,000 if the market demands it. The entire construction and redevelopment will take 15 years and was started in 2007. The development will not impact on the most famous of the colonial ruins that still draws visitors, the Catholic Church, the Bokor Palace Hotel and the old huge casino, as new facilities are being built around them. Even without development, Bokor Mountain still attracts local and foreign tourists every day. Mr. Vutthy believes that after the project has finished, the amount of tourists will substantially increase as the partly constructed new road is already receiving more visitors.

There are worries from local people that the development of Bokor Mountain will diminish their ability to visit and observe its beauty. Mr Vutthy assures that this is not the case. All provincial people or other people can travel on the road without being charged anything, he says. If locals come to visit the developed sites when they are finished, however, they will have to pay for entering and the price of the tickets has not yet been set. The project will employ over a thousand people and the local economy can only benefit from the development of Bokor Mountain, Mr Vutthy states.

The site was first developed as a retreat for French colonialists in the early 20th century; they adored the fresh atmosphere and nice view, a contrast to the oppressive heat and humidity of the tropics below. Mr. Soy Synol, Chief of the Kampot Tourism Ministry, says during the time of King Preah Batt Sisovat the mountain was first developed. Administrative offices, a hotel, a casino, electricity center, water supply, infirmary, Church, and Buddhist pagoda were all built. According to some documents and our elders, Mr. Synol continues, the French colonists demanded a harsh tax from the Cambodian people. They used this tax to construct the road and buildings. Cambodian royalty, French officials and wealthy colonialists held affluent parties at the hotel and gambled at the huge casino. The Vietnamese war of independence interrupted the party in 1940. It wasn’t to be the only time war intervened.

Sampouv Brum monks points out Sala Kmov, where the ex-King Norodom Sihanouk liked to visit in the evenings in 1961. During the Sang Kum Reas Neyum era, King Norodom Sihanouk added further luxurious structures. Along with restoring the remaining casino, church and other damaged buildings, modern equipment was added, beautiful gardens created and roads enlarged. Bokor Mountain returned as the place to be in Cambodia for the rich and influential. With the rise of the Khmer Rouge, the curse of war again ruined and deserted Bokor Mountain. It was turned into a military outpost, the road falling into disrepair, littered with mines and the buildings riddled with bullet holes. And so it stayed. Until now.

Local villagers believe that the soul of a very beautiful ghost is looking after the inside of the old huge casino. It will soon have to share Bokor Mountain with a new wave of visitors.

May Titthara
Photos by Heng Chivoan

Bokor, Cloud Mountain01-Jun-2008

Bokor, Cloud Mountain
01-Jun-2008